Sailing The Moody African Coast

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Let’s Go Sailing and Discover Turunc

Jamie & Liz agreed it was time to break out of the “Black Hole” and actually sail in to the Mediterranean. Within Marmaris bay katabatic winds and unpredictable breezes make sailing challenging. We entered the Sark Bogazi straight, which proved to be much wider than it appeared on the chart, and the winds picked up so we commenced tacking and making good progress. After about ¾ mile we broke out and started some serious stuff with 3 sails out, proving that with a ketch rig you don’t need the mainsail if you want to cruise comfortably. Before long, however the Skipper decided it was time to turn right round a full 180 degrees and head due west towards Turunc, which is where we would be mooring up for the night. The wind was dropping before but now it was down to a whisper and then as we reached the wind shadow of the high hills facing us, we almost stopped. So it was on with the engine and aim for the beach.  Neither Jamie nor Liz had been here before so we all consulted Rod Heikel’s book, which seemed optimistic about safe anchorage. Sure enough there were so many Turkish boats (especially the mini-gulets) that we abandoned the idea of tucking ourselves right in but took the more prudent option of anchoring just in front of the bathing area.  Swimming in Turunc Source: M&L Furlong  We had just got our swimming togs on when a Turkish boat stuffed full of English tourists came right up behind us and dropped anchor- obviously we were in his favourite spot! Fortunately, they did not stay too long and eventually left us in peace, except yet again an ice cream man came by yelling out his wares. After that, we were able to swim and snorkel in crystal clear water before watching the sun go down as we sipped our aperitifs on deck.  Then it was the dreaded wobbly blancmange ride to the village quay where a “kind local” helped us ashore. Turunc is a small resort with a funicular railway (no doubt because it’s on a mountainside). Although it gives the impression of being quite remote, it’s actually touristy but not too bad. After a browse amongst the tourist tat in the shops, looking for a bracelet for our granddaughter Jamie & Liz spied a bar for a top up and promptly sat down, whilst we headed for the nearest cash machine! In ordering drinks for us we are impressed with Jamie & Liz’s improving Turkish vocabulary. We stuck to wine for our aperitif before we settled on an eatery. We ended up on the front looking out into the bay at the restaurant that the “kind local” manages, for an excellent meal with plenty of local red to wash it all down, but it’s a cash only bill. Then back into the wobbly inflatable for a smooth ride out to Esper (with torch clutched tightly in hand). At this point Lesley opted for her bed, but Jamie suggested opening “that bottle of red you brought from England”. Since Mike is so weak willed he said “what a good idea” when in fact he had already had too much. Whilst quaffing more wine and noticing that Esper had sprouted and extra 2 masts, something flashed past him in the dark and then zoomed back again behind him. It was Millyu showing off her prowess at lightning reactions and seeing in the dark-it’s bit disconcerting until you get used to it. Well past midnight, Jamie said he was going to bed so Mike took the hint and staggered off feeling jaded.

After about ¾ mile we broke out and started some serious stuff with 3 sails out, proving that with a ketch rig you don’t need the mainsail if you want to cruise comfortably. Before long, however the Skipper decided it was time to turn right round a full 180 degrees and head due west towards Turunc, which is where we would be mooring up for the night.

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Sleeping Up On Deck It’s So Hot

Esper, right, at anchor in Keci Buku

n the morning we stowed and made a slow down-wind hop around the corner, which saw us in Keci Buku, a great little bay divided in half by a spit. We made our way down to the end, out of the way of idiots on jet skis and tourists limping along the sand bar. As we surveyed our potential anchorage we were angrily waved off by a German who was insistent we didn’t drop our anchor anywhere near his precious boat (it was a hand-painted, rusty heap of shite).

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The Aquarium That Is Dirsek

Esper at anchor in Dirsek. Just look at that water!

We spied across the bay a lonely old Turk, in his dinghy waving at us. He was right next to what looked like a very pretty sandy bay. No-one else was there.. “Beware of Turks bearing gifts” thought we, but nevertheless decided to give it a go. We anchored and went stern to.

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Baring All!

Esper running goosewing past Simi

Since the wind was up our bum I thought I’d expose mine and stripped off. I’d heard a lot of good things about naked sailing and I was keen to give it a go. It was all fine for about 2 minutes until I realised that the tanker behind us was not the one that had passed us 10 minutes ago going the other way, but another one following us behind pretty fast!

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Mental Weather!

helm

The anchor is well dug in and my transit line still hasn’t changed, but now it’s dark I can’t see it and the anchor chain is making funny noises every now and then. The wind is blowing hard enough that the boat is tipping over and I have to lean over the laptop to readjust myself to an upright position. I can hear the water slopping all around poor Esper. I’m not sure how well I’m going to sleep tonight and I’m exhausted after the six hours of sailing we’ve done today.

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A Storm Is Brewing

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Time wasn’t on our side so instead we sat the wind out which eventually died down, allowing us a wonderful evening in the Coketme Restaurant. This place is family run and the hospitality and food are second to none. Rod Heikell, who’s pilot book we use daily, had made some disparaging remarks about all the restaurants except the Rose Mary.

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