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Monthly Archives: January 2010
Trinkitat
A couple more log entries, taking in some incredible nature and desolate spots. Of course most of these entries are documented by Jamie’s photography so click on the link below and discover Trinkitat and Khor Nawarat in Sudan. Mark my word, one day, maybe many decades in the future, these will be prime holiday spots. For the time being they are untouched by the evils of mankind!
Suakin Old Town
One of the most striking things about the seaward entrance to Suakin is the dominance of a whole bunch of buildings that look as though they have been shot to pieces. This is Suakin Old Town and the reason these decrepit buildings look so ramshackle is because they are made of coral and collapsed in an earthquake. Some more pics for your entertainment…
The People Of Sudan
Suakin has to be seen to be believed. It is one reason why I took so many photographs of both people and buildings. Along the dusty road from the anchorage and old city lies the market, and behind the market, the residential area. The market is surrounded by wooden buildings that look more at home in The House of Fun, such is the angle at which they sit. It is the residential area, however, that really shocks. More buildings made of any scrap of cardboard, metal or wood have been cobbled together to provide some kind of shelter from the sun.
The Journey To Port Sudan: An Eye-Opener
As if we needed proof that we were visiting one of the world’s poorest countries, the 1 hour bus journey from Suakin to Port Sudan was an eye-opener I’ll never forget.
Welcome To The Culture Shock
My first escapade into a Sudanese town was rather rewarding, at least from a photographic point of view. I’d been warned that the Sudanese do not like having their photograph taken and wandering around this battered old town with my massive Canon lens attached to my expensive camera certainly raised some eyebrows, not least from anyone in uniform. I’d already been ticked off by a local man for attempting to take pictures of the local fishing boats on this atmospherically cloudy afternoon.
Sudan
Sudan is the gem of Africa. From the coast it is not only unspoiled but utterly stunning too. Then one sets foot on land and meets the people: they’re as beautiful as the land they inhabit. Sudan is one of those countries I really wish I’d spent more time in and it is my wish to return one day. In the meantime I have this set of images to remind me just how poor the people are, yet completely humble and happy. At least in front of the camera.
Best Day of Your Life?
Can you think of the best day of your life? You’ve probably got a few, or perhaps you hadn’t given it much thought. It’s rare that a day happens and then lie in bed on the same evening concluding that it must be one of the best days of your life, but that’s what happened today. Today goes down as one of the most idyllic, perfect days I have ever experienced.
Bigger Fish To Fry
In our last podcast we had just entered Sudan, where we discovered an idyllic anchorage and met Duygu The Dugong. We reluctantly left this spot a couple of days later and continued sotuhwards on to our next Sudanese marsa, Inkeifel. Expect plenty of fish, the perfect barbie-on-a-beach, a mangrove swamp and a possible sighting of Ursula Andress, though I suspect that last bit is all in Jamie’s mind.
Dugong Delights
We’d spent the last week holed up in Luli and although good deeds were done it was time to get the hell out of Dodge and go discover some Sudanese nature. What better place than Marob?
I won’t bore you with the sail to this wonderful marsa but the log book does mention that we caught a 3kg tuna, saw lots of dolphins and sighted a strange, unidentifiable flashing object. One night sail later and we were quickly approaching a very tricky entrance to Marob via many hidden reefs. No wonder this coast is littered with wrecks.
Duygu The Dugong
In this latest podcast we finally cross the boarder of Egypt and pass in to Sudan, one of the poorest and most war-torn countries on this planet.
For us, however, its poor economy is made up for by the very rich beauty of nature. The anchorage of Marob is our first taste of ‘real’ Africa and within 24 hours we have run-ins with turtles, ospreys, camels and, get this, a dugong!
Ships That Pass In The Night
“Ships that pass in the night” is a great nautical term that has passed into everyday English parlance. In this podcast we go back to its original context and pass not just another ship in the night but a strange, alien-like object too. Under the cover of darkness identifying what these things are is a great game that whiles away the night watches.
First Tinker To Sail The Red Sea?
This last week has been dramatic to say the least. You’ll find out more in the coming weeks when the podcasts and photographs of our progress are published. Bear in mind we now have to be mindful of what we make public knowledge and what we hold back, so there will be a delay in what we report on. In the meantime we’ve been sitting out some nasty southerlies in this safe little anchorage and yesterday we had some fun. Our tender, which is a British-built Tinker, doubles up as a sailing dinghy so Cillian of ‘Cobble’ and myself put a bit of effort into rigging her up and taking her for her maiden sail! Is this the first ever Tinker to sail in the Red Sea? Maybe, maybe not, but what is impressive is that I’ve successfully managed to upload a video clip of said maiden voyage. Listen out for the gay Egyptian soundtrack!
Electronics And Fishing
It’s been a while since we gave you a progress update; for the last few weeks you’ve been hearing from some of the Vasco Da Gama participants and getting to know the different people taking part in the rally that takes us 4,500 miles from Turkey to India.
There’s been a reason for this staggered narrative though: we’re passing through some of the most dangerous waters in the world. Piracy has been a growing concern in the Gulf of Aden and the Indian Ocean. British sailing couple, Paul and Rachel Chandler of the sailing boat ‘Lyn Rival’, previous Vasco Da Gama rally participants, are still being held hostage in Somalia at the time of publication. The threat of piracy is very, very real so we are avoiding publishing our exact whereabouts, hence the automated, scheduled podcasts. But now we can continue with the adventure and we get back to our progress on the water…