The Hillstation of Kodaikanal

Monthly Archives: October 2007

Fantastic Turkish Breakfast!

Source: M&L Furlong

We awoke to the sound of preparation for getting under way. The Skipper and First Mate were determined to take us for a “fantastic Turkish breakfast” across Marmaris Bay. We dropped anchor at “Orange”. Lesley opted to swim to shore whilst we motored in the orange blancmange. We bagged sun loungers in true Germanic style by leaving our towels out and sat at a table in the shade on the decking, facing out into the bay.

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Let’s Go Sailing and Discover Turunc

Jamie & Liz agreed it was time to break out of the “Black Hole” and actually sail in to the Mediterranean. Within Marmaris bay katabatic winds and unpredictable breezes make sailing challenging. We entered the Sark Bogazi straight, which proved to be much wider than it appeared on the chart, and the winds picked up so we commenced tacking and making good progress. After about ¾ mile we broke out and started some serious stuff with 3 sails out, proving that with a ketch rig you don’t need the mainsail if you want to cruise comfortably. Before long, however the Skipper decided it was time to turn right round a full 180 degrees and head due west towards Turunc, which is where we would be mooring up for the night. The wind was dropping before but now it was down to a whisper and then as we reached the wind shadow of the high hills facing us, we almost stopped. So it was on with the engine and aim for the beach.  Neither Jamie nor Liz had been here before so we all consulted Rod Heikel’s book, which seemed optimistic about safe anchorage. Sure enough there were so many Turkish boats (especially the mini-gulets) that we abandoned the idea of tucking ourselves right in but took the more prudent option of anchoring just in front of the bathing area.  Swimming in Turunc Source: M&L Furlong  We had just got our swimming togs on when a Turkish boat stuffed full of English tourists came right up behind us and dropped anchor- obviously we were in his favourite spot! Fortunately, they did not stay too long and eventually left us in peace, except yet again an ice cream man came by yelling out his wares. After that, we were able to swim and snorkel in crystal clear water before watching the sun go down as we sipped our aperitifs on deck.  Then it was the dreaded wobbly blancmange ride to the village quay where a “kind local” helped us ashore. Turunc is a small resort with a funicular railway (no doubt because it’s on a mountainside). Although it gives the impression of being quite remote, it’s actually touristy but not too bad. After a browse amongst the tourist tat in the shops, looking for a bracelet for our granddaughter Jamie & Liz spied a bar for a top up and promptly sat down, whilst we headed for the nearest cash machine! In ordering drinks for us we are impressed with Jamie & Liz’s improving Turkish vocabulary. We stuck to wine for our aperitif before we settled on an eatery. We ended up on the front looking out into the bay at the restaurant that the “kind local” manages, for an excellent meal with plenty of local red to wash it all down, but it’s a cash only bill. Then back into the wobbly inflatable for a smooth ride out to Esper (with torch clutched tightly in hand). At this point Lesley opted for her bed, but Jamie suggested opening “that bottle of red you brought from England”. Since Mike is so weak willed he said “what a good idea” when in fact he had already had too much. Whilst quaffing more wine and noticing that Esper had sprouted and extra 2 masts, something flashed past him in the dark and then zoomed back again behind him. It was Millyu showing off her prowess at lightning reactions and seeing in the dark-it’s bit disconcerting until you get used to it. Well past midnight, Jamie said he was going to bed so Mike took the hint and staggered off feeling jaded.

After about ¾ mile we broke out and started some serious stuff with 3 sails out, proving that with a ketch rig you don’t need the mainsail if you want to cruise comfortably. Before long, however the Skipper decided it was time to turn right round a full 180 degrees and head due west towards Turunc, which is where we would be mooring up for the night.

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Getting Our Anchor Chain Fouled

Source: M&L Furlong

Jamie put out a call and within minutes we had a response from fellow yachties (several actually), but the first proved to be the nearest and also have all the right equipment. We gulped a cup of coffee and waited patiently for “International Rescue”. More exchanges on the VHF followed and after about an hour a rib driven by a salty sea dog came hurtling towards us with two divers all togged up with tanks, flippers and wet suits to sort us out.

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The Gearbox Actually Worked!

Source: M&L Furlong

Despite being quite close in, we were suddenly surrounded by local boats (including those mini-gulets) passing us on both sides, jam-packed with tourists. This eventually quietened down and gave us time to relax a bit except when the ice cream man came motoring by with calls of “Isa creama, chocka lolly” which we ignored! After a swim & snorkel Mike turned on the hot shower on deck and managed to spray everything on board within range as he was facing the wrong way-got ticked off by the Skipper AND First Mate.

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Where Have The Winds Gone?

Source: M&L Furlong

We meandered up the cobbled pathway to the castle only to find it closed, but we did not need much persuasion from Jamie & Liz to climb up to the highest café in town for cold refreshments in the Panoramic Bar. We gazed at the beautiful scenery in the bay and were able to see Esper’s berth in the distance.

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Getting That Damn Gearbox Back In Place

Where

Gerald, a fellow yachtie who had previous knowledge & experience of matters mechanical, joined us and proved invaluable. A fan was set up to keep us cool and with plenty of cold drinks, twisting & turning, the gearbox eventually clicked into place. Hurrah- but will it work? Meantime-where is Millyu?

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The Folks Are Back In Town

Millie Source: M&L Furlong

After debriefing we were taken to the Marina swimming pool-memories of swimming up and down looking at the blue skies and hearing the slatting of the rigging in the masts. Was it really only a few hours ago that we were in England? A poolside lunch fortified us for the afternoon.

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